It stormed for two days and then the weather forecast called for a one-day lull before the winds picked up again. We didn't think we could reach the summit in a day from 14,200' by climbing the West Rib, but Gordon and I thought we might have a chance if we went up the easier West Buttress route. This is a bit unorthodox — most parties camp at 17,000' on the West Buttress before attempting the summit — but we were now well-acclimatized after spending almost a week at or above 14,200'.

The day dawned clear and calm, and I left camp at about 8:15am. Gordon followed a couple of hours later; he had hesitated because he'd developed frostnip in a couple of his fingers a few days earlier and was worried about making things worse.

Here's the view looking down at the 14,200' camp from several thousand feet higher up.